ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN DE MODE OCT-NOV-DEC 2022 (Vol V, Issue XXVIII) COVER STORY | Article Published on: 29th DEC 2022 | www.demodemagazine.com
WRITTEN BY JEANNE LEA DELAHOUSIE, GUEST WRITER (FASHION) & PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL FOUST, PHOTO-JOURNALIST (DE MODE)
NYFW’s New Leapers came with a stronghold on the conversation within fashion today. Creating playful and vibrant textures for their own story, we dove deep into the presence that each show methodically prepared. As backstage is bustling with models in hair and makeup, organized by award-winning Marcello Costa, the runway’s final lighting touch-ups are being secured. It is an exciting time for young designers, lovers of fashion, and everyone on the production team to see what the future of fashion has behind the runway.
SAINT FLEURS SS23 COLLECTION AT NYFW
Kicking off the show with Saint Fleurs’ debut collection “Circle of Life”, and the start of NYFW Day one.
A finely tailored, all-white blazer jacket with added surgeon medical hood, goggles, and silver metal neck plate is the show’s first look. The composition comes across elegantly, as the audience is struck back to what our commonly forgotten first visual of the world is. The reverence to birth begins the New Leapers show just as these designers are beginning their journey materializing into the world of fashion.
CHARLOTTE SUI (SISIO) SS23 COLLECTION AT NYFW
Charlotte Sui is next up on the runway; her collection: “Heart Sutra” is a charming gloss on duality. She shares that her experience creating is a process of healing. Reclamation for the heart, the collection speaks from the first walk to the last. Her designs showcase the inverse of human emotions.
From highs and lows, Sui creates an imaginative cheosgram with two necklines articulated on the bottom and top of the traditional Chinese dress. Utilizing the interdisciplinary play of dark and light Charlotte organizes organic cutouts hosted in black and white fabric as an ode to her trial with bipolar. From the ultra-femme world of her sustainable garden, we see the fabric overlay that continues to build as the rising action finds its point of climax. The extraordinarily daunting lammergeyer dress marks a turn of time as the model raises her arms and the wings are displayed.
Following are the Fall Twins, in a two-person denim patchwork unique garment. We recognize after the fall or flight, there is still the dexterity to patch the pieces back together. Finishing the collection was a cage dressed ornamented in black and red bows. A comment of if we spend more time decorating our barriers rather than breaking free of them. Luckily, this is not the case for Sui, she clearly has broken free and materialized her journey entrancingly in doing so.
R.L.E. COLLECTION AT NYFW
R.L.E. is a London-born sustainability-focused, designer brand founded in 2021 by Chinese designer Qixin (Cici) Zhang.
The third designer to make an entrance on the runway is London-based Cici Qixin Zhang. Pastel petals promenade the white constructed runway whilst iridescent droplets magnify the simple wondrous details of malleable reflections in the sky. The flowing charming cutouts begin to transport us into an ethereal elaboration as our childlike wonder reconnects with a deeper remembrance. Fluidity sings upon every sustainable weave. Sought out opportunities with fabric scraps, and altered them into 3D yarn to weave and crochet the transformed materials into accessories and details on clothes. Slow fashion here is delicately contrived and fiercely sustainable for the present.
JULIAN WOODHOUSE SS23 COLLECTION AT NYFW
Julian Woodhouse closed out his artistically lead ‘New Leaper’s’ show for NYFW. A solid-gold performance choreographed by Tony DeBerry included Julian Woodhouse and nine fellow dancers; Justin DeSean, Benie Gorde, Jo Daquigan, Bri Williams, Jahmeel Williams, Sydney Lastorino, Valerya Perez, Lloyd Boyd, Jonalyn Antoinette. Audience members were seen leaving their jaws on the floor. Enjoy reading our following article that highlights the splendor of Woodhouse’s finale performance.
Julian Woodhouse did not only just bring the party to the runway, he made the runway his prey. As the first black designer in Seoul, CEO of Woodhouse Army, and the cast of Next in Fashion SS23 COLLECTION Julian Woodhouse closed out his artistically lead ‘New Leaper’s’ show for NYFW. A solid-gold performance choreographed by Tony DeBerry included Julian Woodhouse and nine fellow dancers; Justin DeSean, Benie Gorde, Jo Daquigan, Bri Williams, Jahmeel Williams, Sydney Lastorino, Valerya Perez, Lloyd Boyd, Jonalyn Antoinette. Audience members were seen leaving their jaws on the floor. Enjoy reading our following article that highlights the splendor of Woodhouse’s finale performance. Fashion and the art director for the New York Fashion Week’s New Leapers, Julian brought in a heavenly debut to New York Fashion Week for the SS23 season. Closing the house with a dance performance choreographed by the master in heels himself, Tony Berry. Consisting of eight dancers garnished in greens and gold, showcased their rhythm and raillery in their staggering neon green thigh-high heels.
“Just move your wings that god gave you, so you can move through” harmonized by Woodhouse; as powerful colored bodies heated the stage a chill dispersed throughout the audience.
“Fighting and climbing our walls”, an emergence of faith and prosperity; excellence and integrity, the dancers put their heart and soul into every beating choreographed move.
“Count your blessings because I gave you this joy”, followed by the fulsome count number, obliged in trance, Woodhouse gave it all. The neon green and yellow cut-outs highlighted each delicate and muscular curve of the dancers. We see their wings as fluid spirits on the stage. Each move held into deification. Transcending a deeper understanding, we know this is a staple of the Woodhouse ethos. Through his lyrics and his determination in design on and off the stage, there’s no denying that counting his blessings added up to something greater than what meets the eye. Though the final tableau rests with eight dancers all curved around his stark white jumpsuit that gorgeously contrasts his rich deep complexion, our eyes truly had the honor to lay on something great.
SON JUNG WAN SS23 COLLECTION AT NYFW
Korean designer Son Jung Wan's successfully completed the 21st 2023 S/S New York Collection with the Korean actress, Yoo Sun. She returned to NYFW for Spring 2023 sharing a mesmerizing collection focusing on emphasizing the woman’s silhouette through natural draping, voluminous pleating, and dramatic collar detailing.
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